UPS & Battery Calculator
Add headroom: ×1.25 for electronics, ×2.0–3.0 for motor loads (to handle inrush).
The Right UPS for Homes: Offline & Line-Interactive
For home and small-office use, the best fit is almost always an Offline (Standby) or Line-Interactive UPS. Both deliver clean, reliable backup for computers, routers, TVs, game consoles, NAS drives, LED lighting, small fridges, pumps, boilers and control boards—without the constant heat and noise of an “online” double-conversion UPS. The key idea: when utility power is healthy, they let AC pass straight through (Line-Interactive adds automatic voltage regulation, AVR). When power dips or fails, a relay transfers to the inverter and the battery takes over.
How They Work
Offline (Standby) — In normal operation, your load is connected directly to the mains via a bypass path. The battery stays charged. If the mains fails, a small relay switches to the inverter in about 4–10 ms and the battery powers the load.
Line-Interactive — Same idea, plus an AVR (buck/boost transformer) that corrects low or high voltage without using the battery. Transfer to the inverter on real outages is typically 2–6 ms, and the AVR often eliminates needless battery cycles during brownouts and sags.
Normal power: AC flows directly (offline) or through AVR (line-interactive). During an outage: a relay transfers to the inverter and the battery runs the load.
Why They’re Ideal for Homes
- High efficiency, low heat — Bypass mode avoids constant AC→DC→AC conversion. That means less wasted power, cooler operation, and lower electricity bills.
- Quiet — Fans don’t need to run all the time. Most of the day, you won’t hear it.
- Longer battery life — Fewer unnecessary discharge cycles (especially with AVR) and cooler temps help batteries last longer.
- Cost-effective — Lower purchase price and operating costs than online UPS models.
- Simple & reliable — Fewer always-on power stages → fewer parts running hot → fewer headaches.
Pure Sine vs Simulated Sine
Many home UPS models output either a pure sine wave or a simulated (stepped) sine wave on battery. For most basic electronics, both will work. However:
- For PCs with active PFC power supplies, modern TVs, audio gear, and appliances with AC motors or compressors, choose a pure sine-wave UPS to minimize noise, heat, and stress.
- Simulated sine is fine for routers, ONTs, small LED lighting, low-power electronics, and many budget PCs, but check the PSU specifications if unsure.
- If a device buzzes or runs hotter on battery, upgrade to pure sine or increase UPS VA rating.
Will They Work with My Equipment?
- Computers, routers, TVs, game consoles, monitors — Yes. Modern PSUs typically tolerate brief transfer times (up to ~20 ms) thanks to input capacitors.
- NAS / home servers — Yes; pair with a USB or network-signaling UPS if you want auto-shutdown.
- Fridges, pumps, small motors — Yes, but size your UPS generously to handle inrush current. If the motor is large (deep-well pump, big compressor), consider a dedicated inverter or higher-VA UPS.
- Audio gear & TVs — Prefer a pure sine-wave output model (many line-interactive units offer this).
When Would I Choose an Online UPS?
Online (double-conversion) UPS keeps the inverter running all the time for the absolute lowest transfer time (0 ms) and tightest voltage/frequency control. That’s valuable for certain labs, medical devices, harsh generator power, or mission-critical servers. For typical homes, the noise, heat, and energy penalty usually aren’t worth it.
Common Myths (Quick Facts)
- “Transfer time will crash my PC.” — Unlikely. ATX PSUs hold up for short dips; 4–10 ms (offline) or 2–6 ms (line-interactive) is normally fine.
- “Line-interactive can’t handle computers.” — It can. They’re widely used for IT loads. Pick pure sine-wave output if your gear is sensitive.
- “AVR is the same as a stabilizer.” — AVR inside a line-interactive UPS is automatic buck/boost designed to reduce battery use during sags/overvoltage.
Quick Sizing Checklist
- List your loads (W): PC, monitor, router, TV, fridge, pump, etc. Sum the watts.
- Add headroom: × 1.25 for electronics, × 2.0–3.0 for motor loads (to handle inrush).
- Convert to VA: divide by power factor (typ. 0.8). Example: 600 W ÷ 0.8 ≈ 750 VA.
- Pick a UPS size at or above the VA you computed (choose the nearest standard VA rating).
- Choose output type: Prefer pure sine if you have active-PFC PSUs, audio gear, or motors.
- Battery runtime: Use the calculator to select Ah and strings for your target minutes.
- Placement: keep ventilation space for inverter and batteries.
Efficiency Comparison (Typical)
Quick recommendation: For most homes: a line-interactive, pure sine-wave UPS sized for your watts plus headroom gives the best balance of protection, silence, and efficiency. For small loads (router, lights, single PC), a quality offline unit is excellent value. Choose online UPS only when you truly need zero transfer and very tight regulation.